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SrinivasanChief Party Member
Co-Founder of KnitBrain International.

Textile Printing Technology - Origin

Textile printing was introduced into England in 1676 by a French refugee who opened works, in that year, on the banks of the Thames near Richmond. Curiously enough this is the first print-works on record; [ This is an old story from a reference in the late 1800s but it has never been proven and is generally not believed to be the case anymore. 

There are no French names on the list of fabric printers and dyers at that time. Later a few French Huguenots arrived but that was after the British had a flourishing calico printing industry established. but the nationality and political status of its founder are sufficient to prove that printing was previously carried on in France. In Germany, too, textile printing was in all probability well established before it spread to England, for, towards the end of the 17th century, the district of Augsburg was celebrated for its printed linens, a reputation not likely to have been built up had the industry been introduced later than 1676.

As early as the 1630s, the East India Company was bringing in printed and plain cotton for the English market. By the 1660s British printers and dyers were making their own printed cotton to sell at home, printing single colors on plain backgrounds; less colorful than the imported prints, but more to the taste of the British. Designs were also sent to India for their craftspeople to copy for export back to England. 

There were many dyehouses in England in the latter half of the 17th century, Lancaster being one area and on the River Lea near London another. The plain cloth was put through a prolonged bleaching process which prepared the material to receive and hold applied color; this process vastly improved the color durability of English calicoes and required a great deal of water from nearby rivers. Again, there were many dyehouses, the one I am most familiar with was that started by John Meakins, a London Quaker who lived in Cripplegate. When he died, he passed his dyehouse to his son-in-law Benjamin Olive, Citizen and Dyer, who moved the dye-works to Bromley Hall where it remained in the family until 1823, known as [Benjamin Ollive and Company] Ollive & Talwin, Joseph Talwin & Company, Talwin & Foster… Samples of their fabrics and designs can be found in many museums in England and the United States, including the Victoria and Albert Museum in London and the Smithsonian Copper-Hewett in New York.

On the continent of Europe, the commercial importance of calico printing seems to have been almost immediately recognized, and in consequence, it spread and developed there much more rapidly than in England, where it was neglected and practically at a standstill for nearly ninety years after its introduction. During the last two decades of the 17th century and the earlier ones of the 18th new works were started in France, Germany, Switzerland and Austria; but it was only in 1738 that calico printing was first, practiced in Scotland, and not until twenty-six years later that Messrs Clayton of Bamber Bridge, near Preston, established in 1764 the first print-works in Lancashire, and thus laid the foundation of the industry. At the present time, calico printing is carried on extensively in every quarter of the globe, and it is pretty safe to say that there is scarcely a civilized country in either hemisphere where print-works does not exist.

From an artistic point of view most of the pioneering work in calico printing was done by the French; and so rapid was their advance in this branch of the business that they soon came to be acknowledged as its leading exponents. Their styles of design and schemes of color were closely followed-even deliberately copied by all other European printers; and, from the early days of the industry down to the latter half of the 20th century, the productions of the French printers in Jouy, Beauvais, Rouen, Alsace-Lorraine, &c., were looked upon as representing all that was best in artistic calico printing. This reputation was established by the superiority of their earlier work, which, whatever else it may have lacked, possessed in a high degree the two main qualities essential to all good decorative work, viz., appropriateness of pattern and excellency of workmanship. If occasionally, the earlier designers permitted themselves to indulge in somewhat bizarre fancies, they at least carefully refrained from any attempt to produce those pseudo-realistic effects the undue straining after which in later times ultimately led to the degradation of not only French calico printing design but of that of all other European nations who followed their lead. The practice of the older craftsmen, at their best, was to treat their ornament in a way at once broad, simple and direct, thoroughly artistic, and perfectly adapted to the means by which it had to be reproduced. The result was that their designs were characterized, on the one hand, by those qualities of breadth, the flatness of field, simplicity of treatment arid pureness of tint so rightly prized by the artist; and, on the other, by their entire freedom from those meretricious effects of naturalistic projection and recession so dear to the modern mind and so utterly opposed to the principles of applied art.

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Here is the Type of Textile Printing Technologies:

types of Printing technologies

1. Stamp Printing

This method is pretty self-explanatory. A stamp is created, which is then used to imprint onto the fabric. Similar to the ink pad stamps you used growing up, your design is cut into the stamp, which is then dipped into the ink. Using even pressure, you transfer your design from the stamp onto the textile. Although we've come a long way from ink stamps, the level of detail that you can get from stamp printing is limited, so this is not suitable for the more intricate designs.

Source: contrado.com12

2. Transfer Printing

Another method is using transfer paper. This is a special paper for purchase at supermarkets or craft shops. You can use a standard household printer to print your design onto the transfer paper, which can then be printed onto your chosen fabric with a standard, household steam iron. Transfer printing can be upscaled and done professionally on larger runs; however, it will leave a shiny film or surface texture on your fabric. Transfer printing is not a permanent method of fabric printing, for it can crack and peel with multiple washes, and often fades.

Source: contrado.com12

3. Screen Printing

As we move towards the other end of the printing scale, we start to see methods that are used more commonly within the professional world of textile printing. Silkscreen printing is most common within the business industry. This method of printing uses a stencil and a nylon mesh to create the print design. Waterproof material will block out the spaces that you want your design to appear on, and then those blocked-out spaces are flooded with ink. Due to the way that this method is carried out, you can only use one color for each screen; however, it does produce fantastic replications.

Source: contrado.com12

4. Dye Sublimation

This is a multi-step process that produces some of the best results of all the fabric printing methods. Designs are printed onto a thermal transfer paper, known as dye sublimation paper. The paper is used to print the design onto the fabric. Both heat and pressure are used to permanently bond the inks to the fibers of the fabric, leaving your fabric as soft as it was before it was printed on. The deep infusion technique penetrates special water-based inks deep into the textile, making your print permanent. Perfect for intricate details as well as colors.

Source: contrado.com12

6. Reactive Printing

Reactive printing is one of the heat-activated fabric printing methods. It is done by pre-coating the fabrics with a binder (similar to that of pigment printing) and a printing additive. It prints a dye or wax onto the fabric, and the heat reaction permanently bonds the image to the textile. Put simply, it is similar to coating the fabric with the design, then steaming the fabric to create a reaction which bonds the design to the material.

Source: contrado.com12

5. Pigment Printing

Pigment printing is one of the most popular printing techniques for use on cellulose fibers, making them ideal for use on natural fabrics. This fabric printing method can also work on synthetic materials, making it versatile. It is a localized technique that involves applying dyes to the area of fabric that you want your design to be located. The process is repeated to make the color appear stronger on the fabric.

Source: contrado.com12

Printing Technique Comparison

Modern textile printing incorporates a wide variety of colorants and technologies to produce a diverse array of printed textile products at various stages in the product development process. Today, rotary screen printing accounts for the majority of cotton printed clothing; however, newer printing technologies such as digital printing and cool transfer printing are attracting attention because of their reduced environmental footprint, and seemingly limitless color and design capabilities.